The island is surrounded by steep cliffs with little villages on the "fajas" or the rocky shelves that jut out into the ocean from the base of the cliffs. One village, Santo Christo has no road access -- you have to walk into it along the cliffs. There used to be a cable to send food into the village when the paths would wash out and the sea was too rough to get there by boat. It was a couple of hours to walk in with the girls. In the village (which, like any place without cars, is wonderful) was a cafe where we had a drink. I asked the man behind the bar how many people lived in Santo Christo in the winter. "Three," he said. "Me and two others."